Takakkaw Falls & Laughing Falls

Elevation: 1600 m
Elevation Gain: 125 m
Takakkaw Falls and Laughing Falls are impressive glacier-fed cascades which drain into the Yoho River in Yoho National Park. The word “Takakkaw” is the Cree term for “it is magnificent” and Takakkaw Falls live up to that billing. Indeed, with a vertical drop of 380-m, Takakkaw is the third-highest waterfall in Canada. At 30-m height, nearby Laughing Falls is no match for Takakkaw’s grandeur but the cascade is nevertheless scenic. Laughing Falls was so named for the sound suggested by its falling water.
My Ascents:
August 14 2020
Trailhead: Takakkaw Falls Parking

After a cozy night in the Lake Louise campground, Brianne and I woke to the sound of our children demanding breakfast. We sleep remarkably well in our camping trailer but I do sometimes wish that there was a “snooze” button to silence our little “alarms!” Feeling groggy, we fed the kids and set about to planning the day’s adventures. Since nearly all our hikes are peaks, Brianne suggested that our girls might enjoy a waterfall hike as a change of pace. I couldn’t really argue her point (because it was completely valid) so we decided to venture 35-minutes west into Yoho National Park to enjoy a laid-back hike to Laughing Falls.

As we pulled into the trailhead parking lot (which is shared with the Takakkaw Falls day use area), Takakkaw’s roar reminded me of how magnificent its plummeting plume of water is. While Laughing Falls was our objective, Takakkaw’s lure proved too great and I suggested that we complete the miniscule 1.2-km return hike to its base before continuing in the opposite direction to Laughing Falls. The day wouldn’t bring any summits but I figured that it could at least count as a waterfall two’fer!

LEFT: From the parking area, a popular paved path quickly brought us to a bridge which crossed the Yoho River. Beyond the bridge, the pavement directed us and a number of other waterfall-watchers a short distance to the base of the falls.
RIGHT: “IT IS MAGNIFICENT!” From the base, we breathed in the mist-soaked morning air as we marvelled at Takakkaw’s towering 380-m height.

I don’t generally shoot panoramas 0.6-km from the car but Takakkaw compelled to make an exception! Click to see larger.

Wapta Mountain makes a fine backdrop for still-frothy waters as they make their way downstream towards the nearby Yoho River.

LEFT: Penny and Brianne were excited to be hiking to a waterfall instead of a peak for once. Mera looks less-so (I guess I know which daughter takes after me)!
RIGHT: One of Takakkaw’s most remarkable features is its “rooster tail” which results when water from the upper section hits rock a short distance down and bounces straight back up and out from the face. On a hot summer afternoon, when the glaciers above are feeding the falls’ flow, the “rooster tail” can shoot 45-m straight out from the actual cliff face! While the “rooster tail” is impressive from below, it can be best-seen from the rock-climbing route which parallels the falls.

LEFT: Within a minute of arriving, the girls lost interest in the magnificent falls and set about to climbing whatever they could find in their vicinity.
RIGHT: Mera and Penny get a “talking to” after climbing something they shouldn’t have…

After enjoying the cool mist below Takakkaw, we reversed course, re-crossed the Yoho River and started back towards the parking lot so that we could begin our 8.8-km return hike to Laughing Falls.

Near the parking lot, the Vice President towers over an abandoned warden’s cabin. The popular Iceline Trail runs along a glacial bench at the base of the Vice President’s impressive ramparts.

As we passed by the warden’s cabin (no further than 0.05-km from our car), the girls decided that they were “hungy” and we were forced to stop for an unexpectedly early lunch. 🤦‍♂️

After an early “elevenses” and a near-disastrous trip that saw poor Mera’s knees bleeding through her pants, we managed to actually get hiking (thanks to a Band-Aid that we claimed was endowed with “super hiking powers”)! While Mera toughed it out thanks to the magic Band-Aid, Penny was just happy to cross bridges (no matter how small).

These early views of the distant Yoho Glacier proved to be the only views of the distant Yoho Glacier en route to Laughing Falls.

LEFT: A series of bridges delivered us over glacial rubble-strewn outwash flats early on in the hike.
RIGHT: Trolltinder Mountain comes into view as continued to hike upstream alongside the Yoho River.

LEFT: Brianne provides a hand and a tow-rope to keep the kids moving. Whatever works!
RIGHT: Crux and Penny pull Brianne in opposite (and occasionally non-sensical) directions.

LEFT: The hike to Laughing Falls involves 130-vertical meters but most of that comes in one big, rock-filled, root-strewn stretch. Fortunately, “obstacles” only added to the fun for our kids.
RIGHT: A small, but scenic, waterfall plunged into a small, but equally scenic, canyon as we neared our destination.

After crossing a bridge and passing a backcountry campground, we reached the scenic conclusion to our day’s journey: Laughing Falls.

LEFT: Brianne and Mera enjoy a second lunch while Crux and Penny enjoy a nap!
RIGHT: I guess white noise really does help toddlers sleep!

LEFT: While her 2-year-old sister slept, 4-year-old Mera busied herself by exploring in every direction that we allowed her to (a few attempts to jump into the river had to be “discouraged”).
RIGHT: A much closer look at Laughing Falls.

With Penny, Crux and Mom resting, my little explorer and I decided to venture towards the falls to see if we could hear them “laughing.”

While I was initially skeptical, there was the most distinctive laughter that I’ve ever heard at the base of the falls!

After our waterfall silliness, Mera and I returned to our lunch spot and enjoyed one last view of the panorama created by the area’s impressive watercourses. Click to see larger.

LEFT: Mera and Mom start their return trip by crossing the bridged creek downstream of Laughing Falls.
RIGHT: If we’d only thought to bring a raft, our 4.4-km trip back to the car would have been much faster!

LEFT: A unicorn sighting in the woods during the hike back…
RIGHT: … followed by an attempted stabbing. Who knew that unicorns liked to gore random hikers?

LEFT: During the return trip, we decided to make the 0.15-km (return) detour to check out Angel Staircase Falls.
RIGHT: The view towards this third set of named falls was unremarkable as was the extra distance that we covered to get there, making it hard to determine if this detour was worth it.

LEFT: Another family returns along a section of trail that was equal parts straight and equal parts muddy. Their little one was, however, well-equipped with puddle boots!
RIGHT: Since our little one’s were wearing running shoes (aside: why doesn’t MEC stock hiking boots for kids?!), Dad got to carry them both across the mud (which Crux, apparently, enjoys drinking).

LEFT: Mera and Mom make their way back across one of the hike’s last bridges.
RIGHT: The return of Takakkaw’s roar gave us hope that the end was near! On an adult hike, 10-km return is nothing to write home about but Brianne and I always find ourselves at least doubly exhausted when we’re hiking with the kids!

Penny and Crux enjoy car treats after our big waterfall two’fer!

Since we didn’t have to drive home to Calgary, there was still lots of time for family adventures when we returned to the Lake Louise Campground (not the least of which involved this bear sighting 100-m from our campsite after dinner)!

LEFT: Of course, no camping evening is complete without marshmallows! Hope that bear doesn't like the smell of marshmallow …
RIGHT: Rounding out the evening with a gloriously kid-free campfire! Hiking and camping with the kids is great but putting them to bed is better still! Now if only they would sleep in a little.🤣