Helen Lake

Elevation: 2405 m
Elevation Gain: 540 m
Helen Lake is a tarn which is located in beautiful alpine surroundings between Crystal Ridge and Cirque Peak. The lake was named by C. S. Thompson for Reverend Harry P. Nichols’ daughter. Nearby Katherine, Margaret and Alice Lakes were also named for the women in Nichols’ life. Nichols served as President of the American Alpine Club and was credited with several first ascents in the Canadian Rockies (including that of Cirque Peak in 1899).
My Ascents:
August 1 2021
Trailhead: Helen Lake Trailhead
GPS Track: Helen Lake

Waking to the sounds of the Lake Louise campground (crows and the Canadian Pacific Railway), we consulted our mobile weather oracles. “Heat Warning.” Again. “Air Quality Advisory.” Again. The summer of 2021 had been nothing if not consistent. It was going to be another hot one; A very hot one (31 C on the continental divide)! As we stared out our trailer’s windows to gauge the current degree of wildfire smoke (somewhere between “nearby campfire” and “pea soup”), we debated our options for the day. Clearly, a hike was in order, but we’d need to be judicious with our selection. Mera and Penny are up for anything hiking-wise (with the latter on Dad’s shoulders), however, our eldest, fur-baby Crux, has slowed down considerably. Even in his peak-bagging prime, he struggled with hot days. Turns out that black fur and a physical inability to regulate body temperature by sweating are drawbacks during our short Rockies summers! We, therefore, determined that a hike with ample water was in order (for Crux and us) to beat the heat. With its many streams, titular tarn and fantastic alpine scenery, Helen Lake was selected from the nearby shortlist.

LEFT: Setting off up the Icefields Parkway, we found the (usually) spectacular scenery somewhat muted by thick wildfire smoke. Fortunately, a roadside black bear provided a pleasant highlight for our short, otherwise viewless, drive. Unfortunately, said bruin drew a crowd whose behaviour reminded us of the idiocy that abounds in Banff National Park. As we pulled to the shoulder and observed the forager through closed windows, others came to a dead-stop in the highway’s through-traffic lanes (nearly killing us all and preventing those on the shoulder from departing). I guess this is why you shouldn’t stop for wildlife at all (but I wanted to point out the bear to our little girls). Worse yet, dozens of imbeciles left their vehicles (hundreds of feet away!) to snap cell phone pictures, putting themselves and the bear at risk. As the emboldened crowd crept closer, I rolled down my window to sternly remind them that they NEEDED to be back in their cars. The ensuing stink-eyes left Brianne mortified and me upset. Worse still, the swarm of morons continued to close-in. Cell phones have $hitty zooms after all. Mercifully, the bear felt the same way about the crowd as we did and soon disappeared into the brush. It terrifies me to think of how often this must happen…
RIGHT: After escaping the bear-jam (and its ignoramuses), we completed our short drive to the Helen Lake trailhead and secured one of its final parking spots. As I laced my boots, I noted that the views towards the nearby Crowfoot Glacier were already wonderful (despite the smoky haze).

LEFT: And we’re off! From the trailhead, Mera and Penny made quick work of the, initially, root-filled path.
RIGHT: The first 3 – 4 km of the Helen Lake trail have never been particularly scenic but this year’s abundant crop of fireweed has added a welcome splash of vibrant color.

LEFT: One of many vigorous little streams that criss-cross the trail’s first couple of kilometers.
RIGHT: Brianne provides direction while Mera, uncharacteristically, attempts to keep her feet dry!

While Mera and Penny enjoyed leaping the streams, our hot dog had a better idea! Indeed, we stopped at each one so that he could take advantage of these natural “cooling stations.” Today was, after all, about beating the heat!

LEFT: After 2 – 3 km, thinning forest and avalanche slopes provided better views of nearby Bow Lake and glacier-carved Crowfoot Mountain. This also marked the beginning of a “dry spell” where there’d be no water for Crux (or us) until the dusty trail reached the alpine.
RIGHT: Not only did we exhaust our supply of cooling streams during the hike’s first 3-km, it seems that we also exhausted our 3-year-old! 🤣 Fortunately for Penny, Mom and Dad were both there to lend a hand on the hike’s steeper sections.

After a wee huff-and-puff carrying our youngest, we crested Helen Shoulder (the south end of Crystal Ridge) and were greeted by impressive alpine views of Dolomite Peak.

LEFT: My “training weight” and I.
RIGHT: 5-year-old Mera didn’t benefit from the same treatment that her younger sister got. Poor girl had to hike up the whole trail on her own 2 legs (fortunately, she’s a little rockstar hiker)!

LEFT and RIGHT: As the trail contoured north through alpine environs, a proliferation of magnificent wildflowers made our earlier efforts in the forest and on the dusty shoulder worthwhile!

Better still, we soon discovered a couple of baby marmots (much to Mera, Penny and Crux’s delight)!

LEFT and RIGHT: Crystal Ridge rises up beyond the day’s most scenic stream.

Mera selects one of many available trail options as we near our destination tarn (which occupies an alpine basin below Cirque Peak).

After about 3-hours of hiking/carrying Penny, we reached Helen Nichols’ Lake. Click to see its magnificent alpine surroundings in more detail.

Cirque Peak reflects in the Lake/tarn’s still waters on a hot and hazy afternoon. 🌡️ 🔥

Lakeside craziness… Must have been the heat! 🤣

Mera and I endeavour to beat the heat…

LEFT and RIGHT: One brave little girl, refreshed after a cooling swim in Helen Lake! 🥶

LEFT: Of course, little sister Penny wanted to do everything that her big sister did (until she got her feet in the tarn’s icy water and quickly changed her mind)!
RIGHT: Our “eldest” 🐕‍🦺, of course, also enjoyed a good swim.

While everyone else dried off and warmed back up (which didn’t take long), I wandered to get a more panoramic view of Helen Lake, nestled between Crystal Ridge (left) and Cirque Peak (right). Click to see larger.

LEFT: With dry clothes back on, our cooled-down crew collected a family photo before starting the long hike back down.
RIGHT: A precious alpine scene courtesy Daddy’s little girls. 😍

LEFT and RIGHT: As earlier, our descent was filled with alpine meadows, colorful flowers, rushing streams and, most importantly, Dolomite Peak’s many craggy towers.

Brianne enjoys the smoky alpine views hiking towards Helen Shoulder (left of center where the trees meet the alpine meadows). Beyond the shoulder, the remaining hike through the forest is, of course, much less scenic.

LEFT: After a big day yesterday, the heat and Helen Lake’s 12-km-return distance proved a bit much for little Penny (who enjoyed a 4-km-long nap on Dad’s shoulders on the way down)! 😴 💤
RIGHT: After getting all 3 of our “kids” up and down the swelteringly hot 🔥 Helen Lake trail, we had 1 last trick up our sleeves to beat the heat: big bowls of ice cream 🍨 back at the Lake Louise campground. As you can see, Crux’s cool and tasty treat didn’t last long! 😂

Rushing mountain streams, icy alpine tarns, mint ice cream (and a cooler full of cold ones at the campground)! Clearly, there’s no better way to beat the heat!